Raspberries!

When I was little, I would get a treat every summer. Once, every summer, my mum would buy me a half-pint of fresh raspberries and I would eat the entire half-pint in one sitting. Back then, raspberries were only available in season, and then, as now, they were very expensive. So I would get just one half-pint a summer. Because of this, or maybe in spite of this, raspberries became my very favorite summer fruit.

So, when I finally had a yard of my own, I was delighted to get some raspberry starts from a friend. I planted them in my small yard behind the little garden beds that I dug. But soon I discovered a downside to raspberries, at least in this part of Indiana. Raspberries bushes seem to be a favorite habitat and food for Japanese Beetles. Just about the time that the fruit was ripe, the Japanese Beetles would descend in droves, buzzing and making it mighty unpleasant for picking raspberries or any other garden produce for that matter.

So eventually I decided that I wanted to move those raspberry bushes somewhere far away from the rest of my garden beds. I still wanted raspberries, just not the accompanying beetles bothering me in my garden. So I dug up the vines and transplanted them outside the fence along the alleyway. Each summer I would try to pick as many raspberries as I could before the beetles came. Surprisingly, there were a few years when there were not very many beetles and I was able to pick raspberries to my heart’s content. But, in other years, the beetles were bothersome. I suspected that the spring weather had something to do with the number of beetles, but I did not keep any records.

One year I tried a technique to force my raspberries to bear in late summer rather than early summer. I cut them all back at the beginning of the spring. True enough, I did get a crop in the late summer, but it wasn’t as abundant as I wanted.

Finally, a couple of years ago I made my peace with the beetles. I decided that I can still pick my berries, and just not get bothered by the beetles. What did it matter that these beetles are buzzing around my head? I am not really bothering them and they are not really bothering me; they are just living their little beetle lives and doing what beetles do and I can do whatever I do and we can live in harmony. I picked raspberries and the beetles buzzed.

Last year, other things drew my attention and I did not tend to the raspberries. So this year they spread and filled up that space on the other side of the fence. And now I have raspberries. I have LOTS of raspberries.

I have more raspberries than I’ve ever had before. Before, I had enough so that I could eat my fill and maybe have just a little bit to share. But this year as I am picking, I am eating my fill and yet my bowls are filling up with the raspberries I pick.

I have so many raspberries that I can even think of preserving some.

And so, I made jam.

Why so many raspberries? I wonder. Maybe because I made peace with the Japanese beetles?

 

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Surprise!

Since I still have lots of canned tomatoes and tomato sauce, I only planted 5 tomato plants this year, just to have some for eating.

What I didn’t count on was the hundreds of tomato plants volunteering along the two rows where the tomatoes were planted last year. Since I planted a variety of heirloom plants, I wonder what sort of cross breeding has occurred. I guess we’ll see …

An entire row of volunteer tomatoes growing next to the potatoes

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Perhaps I should have pruned the grapes

Grapes taking over the back porch
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Mulching Experiments

Leaves, Straw, or Grass Clippings

A number of years ago, I discovered the benefits of mulching around my tomato plants with straw. This works really well. The straw prevents the soil from eroding during the rain. It also helps the soil retain moisture. What I mainly noticed was that the straw eliminated dirt splatter onto the tomatoes. Ever since, I have been mulching around my tomato plants with straw. A thick enough layer of straw can also cut down on the number of weeds that sprout up. One disadvantage, however, is that straw generally has straw seeds. So what can and does sprout up is straw, which, usually, is pretty easy to pull out.

As I’ve mentioned before, a few years ago I began preparing new garden beds by spreading a thick layer of leaves over the area of lawn that I wanted to convert to a garden. Last spring, I merely moved some of those leaves aside to form the rows in my garden. This spring, however, I wanted a good quantity of leaves to spread around the area where my new blueberry bushes were growing in order to kill the grass between the little bushes. I didn’t want to try to mow around the bushes. So I needed leaves, lots of leaves. I raked up all the leaves from the area in which I was going to plant potatoes and used those leaves around the blueberries.

Because that left bare ground between my potato rows, I mulched those rows with straw. Unfortunately, as you can see, for this larger area, straw does not prevent grass from growing. There are probably enough gaps between the stalks of straw that allow grass seeds to fall through and take hold. Perhaps I did not put down a thick enough layer of straw.

I still like straw around the tomatoes – it makes for a nice clean mulch. Because I use straw this way for relatively small areas – just little circles around the tomatoes – this application of straw mulch works well. But straw does not work well for mulching large areas. Leaving leaves for the areas between rows is the better method. Grass and weed seed still falls on the leaf cover, and grass and weeds still spring up in the leaves. But those weeds are very easy to pull because they are rooting in the leaves rather than thee soil.

As summer progresses, the leaves decompose and I need to continue mulching. So then I use grass clippings. The photo below is from 2010. This weekend I will start using grass clippings in this year’s garden.

In conclusion, I think that leaving leaves between the rows provides the best mulch for weed control, then supplementing that mulch with grass clippings. I will watch my garden this summer to see if how my mulching techniques work.

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First Canning of 2011

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On the Baking of Bread

Ever since learning about no-knead artisan bread making, I have been baking bread – all sorts of bread. I’ve made 100% whole wheat, dense and chewy. I’ve made high-gluten white, with large holes and a nice crust. I’ve added things to my bread: flax and chia seeds, cracked wheat. I’ve made cinnamon raisin bread, kalamata olive, parmesan cheese bread, sundried tomato bread, cornmeal and hot pepper bread, oatmeal bread. All these breads use essentially the same process and the same proportion of the basic ingredients: 3 cups of flour or a mix of grains and flour, 1.5 cups of water, salt, yeast, and whatever else I want to put into it.

But this process of making bread has also taught me something about myself – who I am and what my personality is like. I have discovered, and confirmed, that, generally, I do not approach things in a scientific way, in the way a researcher would. That is perhaps surprising, given that my educational trajectory was in math and science. I love math and science, but I struggle with the expectation to conduct research. I am not sure I am cut out to do research.

I thought about research and me in relation to the baking of bread when I heard an interview on NPR with the author of “52 Loaves”. This person approached baking bread as a research project. Things got very technical. I discussed baking bread with an acquaintance of mine who also bakes his own bread. Again, things were quite technical – for example, ingredients were measured, precisely, by weight. I don’t bake bread that way. By the way, neither does the person who introduced me to the no-knead bread baking process. I know the basic proportions. And I know, approximately, what consistency the dough ought to be. So I start out with, approximately, 3 cups of flour or other combinations of grain – whatever I happen to have on hand that interests me that day. I dip my half cup measure into the jar and pull up a half cup, more or less. It doesn’t really matter how precise because then I will add my liquid, as much as needed, 1.5 cups, more or less, until I get the consistency I want. Different combinations of flour require different amounts of liquid. I’ve experienced that. If I use some oatmeal, I will need to use less liquid than if I use all high gluten white bread flour. But, how much less? I don’t know. I didn’t write that down. I certainly do experiment, but not in any scientific way. None of my bread is really reproducible. I can tell you, generally, what I do, but I cannot tell you exactly what I do.

There are other things I do in this same manner. I’ve knit items, making up the pattern as I go along. But do I ever write down what I’m doing? When I cook, I rarely follow a recipe, and when I do, I usually only use it as a general guide, and not as a prescription. And, unfortunately, we have not kept any records of our wine making endeavors. The wine we named Pete’s Deep Red was perhaps our best wine. But what did we do? Now I can’t remember. How did we extract the juice? Sometimes we’ve used sugar, sometimes honey, sometimes even maple syrup. What did we use for that batch? How many times did we rack? How long did we let the wine sit before bottling? Did we use oak chips or not? Can we ever make that wine again? Probably not.

There are those who do keep records and sometimes I wish I were more like that. But I am not. So life is an adventure, ever changing, never sure.

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Trees, Great and Small, Bushes and Brambles

There grew up all round about the park such a vast number of trees, great and small, bushes and brambles, twining one within another, that neither man nor beast could pass through…

Sleeping Beauty from The Blue Fairy Book, edited by Andrew Lang

I think of the Sleeping Beauty story every time I have to go through this to turn on the water in the outdoor spigot on the north side of the house. I have to make my way past the honeysuckle, the grapes, the forsythias, and the maple tree sproutlings.

There is a path in there somewhere. I know you can’t see it. But really, there is a path. Really.

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The Salad Bar

Apparently the new leaf tips of edamame bean plants are particularly tasty for rabbits.

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The Ever Expanding Vegetable Garden

In spring of 2009, we planted in our garden beds, prepared the no-till way described in a previous post. We laid out an 17 ft by 37 ft garden plot in the fall of 2007, kept it mulched with a thick layer of leaves, and it was ready to plant. I purchased seed, pored over John Seymour’s book, “The Guide to Self-Sufficiency“, and planned. Finally I decided on a layout and planted. By the end of the growing season, I decided that I really wanted a bigger garden. That fall, we re-fenced the garden, expanding it to about 27 ft by 37 ft. The 2010 layout was a bit different. I ended up not doing the crop rotation as I had planned. In 2011, we kept the vegetable garden layout the same, but with vegetables planted in different locations. The diagrams below show this evolution.

Garden Layouts: Click on the Image to Enlarge
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A No Till Vegetable Garden

When we acquired the empty lot next door, I, naturally, wanted to transform much of it to a vegetable garden. But, what to do with all that grass? Previously, I created small vegetable plots by double digging. But that seemed daunting for the project at hand. Realizing that a layer of leaves kills grass underneath over the winter, I decided to work with, rather than against that process. We fenced in the area we wanted for the garden, and, that fall, raked the fallen leaves inside the fenced-in area. We left the leaves on through the winter, the spring, the summer, and, the next fall, raked more leaves onto the garden. That next spring (2009), we raked aside the leaves for the rows that we wanted to plant, turned over the wonderful, weed free dirt, and planted our seed. Stray Cat TLC monitored our progress.

Garden 2009: Marking the rows

And the garden grew. More leaves, straw, grass clippings, formed mulch between rows, eliminating the need to weed or hoe.

Garden 2009: The garden starts to grow

There was no tilling, no double digging, no grass, no weeds (or very little weeds). I highly recommend this method for converting lawn into garden. It took planning and patience, but it was worth it. For this first plot we put leaves on the area for two falls before we attempted the spring planting, we could have planted after only one winter season. That fall (2009) we expanded the garden area by putting leaves over a wider area and we planted that area the next spring (2010).

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